Faith Hope & Charity

Crypt-ic 

First off, can I just apologise profusely at the poor quality of these photos. I originally took my beloved SLR with me to document my day, which lasted approximately 30 seconds until the red flashing low battery symbol of impending camera-less doom entered my life. What an amateur.

So I was stuck with my trusty iPhone which has very recently acquired an obscene amount of scratches on the lens protector. So the photos come out all smudgy. I mean I guess I GUESS I could have tried to dupe you all into it being some Hipstamatic effect to make the photos more "arty"/"scene"/"whatever" but y'all would have seen straight through that. So instead you'll have to make do with my grovelling apologies.

Victorian Crypt Roof 

So what is all this? Where have I been? What are the smudges obscuring from your eyes? I know. Sit down, take a load off and I'll begin.

Yesterday I decided to venture up the long steep winding hill to Highgate Cemetery. Highgate has a fascinating history, but is probably most famous for being the final resting place of Karl Marx. The Friends of Highgate Cemetery Trust run daily tours of the west side of the cemetery.

Marble sleeping lion, marking the grave of George Wombwell, a famed Victorian menagerie exhibitor 

The first thing to note about Highgate is that it is so beautiful and peaceful. In the past, cemeteries have always kind of creeped me out - all those regimented rows of stone markers often under the shadow of a foreboding church. But Highgate is a romantic woodland, almost a fairytale environment. That sounds a strange thing to say, but it's an enchanting place, and I didn't feel at all uneasy. The tour guide we had explained, interestingly, that it hasn't always been like that. When Highgate first began, everything was very austerely manicured - but over time more and more trees have been planted, ivy has overgrown and nature has taken over.

Final resting place of Tom Sayers, a renowned Victorian bare knuckle fighter, with a marble carving of his trusty dog, Lion 

Our guide pointed out a handful of the noted examples of the thousands of graves at Highgate. Some of the most beautiful I tried (badly - again SO SORRY for the smudges) to photograph. There was the grave of the famous Victorian menagerie exhibitor George Wombwell. He famously owned a lion, called Nero, who was apparently so placid, children could ride on his back without fear. His tomb has a huge carving of a sleeping Nero on top.

I also thought the grave of a famous Victorian bare knuckle fighter, Tom Sayers, was particularly poignant. It had a marble carving of his dog, Lion, who went everywhere with him and was (get this) chief mourner at his funeral. He died a hero due to a famous fight with an American champion of the day which was so long and so bloody that it had to be called off and declared a draw as neither would quit, and Lion is depicted sleeping at the foot of his tomb. I'm a sucker for anything to do with dogs, so this stuck out in my mind.

Sleeping angel carved out of marble

This final tomb, you can just about make out in the terrible terrible photo (AWFUL) the form of a sleeping angel. This is unusual - normally the angels are carved so that they are standing over the graves. This angel has been carved sleeping on a cloud. You can't really tell from my photo, but it's very intricate and very beautiful.

There's an awful lot of history at Highgate, as it's been a working cemetery since 1839. If you've never been and are into that kind of thing it's a really interesting way to spend an afternoon. The ivy and overgrowth that make it so special are also unfortunately destroying the tombstones - the Friends of Highgate have a painstaking ongoing programme of work carried out by volunteers to restore those badly in need of repair and the main source of income for this comes from donations and tour fees. So please do go and visit.

And take better photos than me.

But I Couldn't Find The Broom Cupboard

 TVC

This weekend I went to visit the famous doughnut-shaped BBC Television Centre, which has played home to nearly all of your favourite British shows of TV history past, and also still some of your current faves. Strictly Come Dancing (which comes live from Studio 1, the back wall of which is in the above photo with 'Television Centre' on), Blue Peter, BBC News, Live & Kicking (and Going Live!), and the Broom Cupboard (anyone remember that!?!) and countless sit-coms and chat shows were all filmed here, the list goes on and on and on.

The site is currently up for sale, as part of measures to address a lack of spending cash-dollar in the BBC, which I think is a real shame given its rich history - but as its days are numbered, what better time to partake in a tour of the building?

 Bring Me Sunshine

The tour is really interesting, you get to see inside the news centre, inside Studio 1 and explained all the ridiculous intricacies of how to set up the custom built studios for a live set. They also give you the chance to see some of their star dressing rooms as well, and hear some of the stories of the countless stars the centre has played host to since the 60s.

Sadly, however, you don't get to see the Broom Cupboard. Or Edd the Duck. I know I know, but don't let that put you off!

 The Helios statue in the center of the doughnut

I mean, more than anything it was such a thrill to stand in the same concrete halls that some of the world's most famous people have been to. The tour guides had loads of stories of some of the craaazy things those celebs get up to. Mariah Carey apparently requested a box of puppies as part of her rider once, so she could stroke them to "relax" before her appearance - AMAZING. Totes on the same page with that idea. However, the good old BBC politely declined to provide. Wish I could have seen that conversation.

Studio 1 - The same studio doors the lovely couples of Strictly burst through straight after performing their dances! 

The building is very much of its time - it reminded me in many ways of my old school building, with classic 60s fixtures and fittings. In fact I'm pretty sure they could have got away with filming Grange Hill in the TV Centre corridors, it's definitely got that vibe. But the datedness of the building just serves to remind you of just HOW MUCH history is sitting within those walls. It's fascinating.

 Blue Peter, the world's longest running children's show - the studio board from the last time it was filmed at TVC this summer. It's now moved to the BBC studios in Manchester

The tour also gives you the chance to flex your presenting muscles and test your TV charm. You get to have a go at using the technology that is used to present the weather (so confusing!), and also get the chance to volunteer at using a dummy studio to present the news! My trusty housemate KINDLY volunteered me, and then videoed it, but there's is no way on God's green earth that anyone else is ever seeing that. Let's just say, I ain't no Moira Stuart.

Back of Studio 1

I kept my eye out for any famous faces that might have been working there that day, but as it was a weekend it was quieter than normal and I was out of luck. In hindsight I really should have booked for a Saturday once Strictly is back up and running again, as all the cast would then be in the building rehearsing for that evening's show - GODDAMMIT! Maybe I'll go again - the tours are only a tenner, so really cheap fun thing to do, so I highly recommend going before it is sold and it's too late!

Dorset Days

Lulworth Cove. Pirate-friendly.

I've been on a trip back to the homeland this week. The homeland being Dorset, where I was not born, but certainly bred.

I go back to Bournemouth quite a lot to see my family, but this week I had an EXTRA reason to make the trip down south.

One of my lovely friends from uni is getting married in a couple of weeks, and held a somewhat unusual hen festivity. Kayaking around Lulworth Cove! I would literally expect nothing less from the former treasurer of Exeter University Canoe Club.

You might think thats a little dinghy. It's not. It's a pirate ship. 

Having never kayaked before I was convinced I would be the first to capsize, but actually nothing of the sort happened and I actually really enjoyed it! As you can see the weather was super gorgeous, and the water really was that blue.

All in all, I highly recommend kayaking - the only downside is the enforced wetsuit situation. The less said about that the better. There's a reason there's no photos of me ACTUALLY kayaking.

Sip, savour & quaff

It was also my beautiful (see above) sister's birthday yesterday - and whilst most of the day did not go as planned (long story involving an ambulance *alarmed and concerned face* and various minor health complaints amongst various family members *bewildered and sad face* and a broken cake *MASSIVELY FUCKING ANGRY FACE*) we did have a brief moment of calm at our latest Bournemouth eaterie obsession - The Larderhouse.

Artisan coffee station - with added plastic bag on table ambience (apols)

The Larderhouse's shtick is fresh local ingredients (check), with seasonal menus (check) and a heavy emphasis on really frigging awesome coffee (check, check, a thousand times check). I mean, what the heezy is not to love!? 

It was really warm yesterday and I was all hot and bothered from all the DRAMZ so didn't have a coffee this time, but they do that lovely pattern thing in the cappuccino foam which I will get a picture of one day!

Mushroom & chorizo tart - FIT

Food-wise the daily-changing menu is normally short but all the choices almost always all sound delicious - so never an issue with finding something good! I went for the mushroom & chorizo tart as I have had a massive craving for chorizo lately. I love charcuterie, so sue me. It was lovely, creamy yet salty and all round lip-smackingly good.

 Ginger beer - beverage of kings

It's a great place for brunch, lunch, dinner or drinks - a local gem that I intend to reward with my trade as much as I can when I go back to visit the rental units. And by 'as much as I can' I OF COURSE mean that I intend to take up residence.

What Goes Around Comes Around

Opposite Ground Zero 

There are only a handful of world events that will take place in my lifetime that I imagine that I will be able to recall in weirdly vivid detail exactly where I was, what I was doing when the news reached me.

Sunday May 1st 2011 was one of these, and one directly related to another such event. I was getting ready for bed, in my hotel room in NYC, having spent a wonderful evening at the theatre and eating cheesecake. I switched on CNN, for background noise more than anything, when it very quickly became clear that something major was on the brink of being announced.

St Paul's churchyard

It was being reported that the president was about to make an announcement, tonight. Nothing was confirmed but it was reported that supposedly Osama Bin Laden had been killed, and the information that was coming across the newswires was that it was due to US military action.

I stopped what I was doing and waited. This was huge.

The morning after, there was no question about it. I had to go to Ground Zero. The pictures the night before, at the White House, in Manhattan, cities all over America, had been of defiant jubilation. The chants of 'USA, USA, USA' echoing into the night sky.

Reporter

But the next day, at the site that bore the awful pain of the event that started this all, there was no ugly bullish arrogant chanting by the keg-swilling frat boys. 

There was quiet relief. There was recognition that whilst this victory would not be the full stop to this, the gratitude that justice had been done for New Yorkers today was thick in the air. It is all too rare in this world that evil gets its comeuppance, so the sense of dignified karmic retribution was one to be thankful for.

Land of the free and home of the brave

I've written my thoughts on 9/11 before, about as eloquently as I am capable of, so I'm not about to rehash it here. But suffice to say, as I think is clear from my ongoing laments that I don't live in New York anymore, this city means more to me than any place ever has in my life, in ways I couldn't even have imagined. 

So to be there, for this moment of triumph over the spectre that has hung like deathly shadow over the city for the past 10 years, was very special, and something that I will never forget.

This was my last day in New York City this time, but I'm happy to say that it was easier to leave it this time. Because as my dad (that font of all wisdom!) always says, if you don't leave - you can't come back again. And I will... and it won't take three years next time.

No Sleep Til Brooklyn

 Brooklyn Bound

One of my favourite things in NYC is Brooklyn Bridge. I don't think I'll ever tire of its views, its stature, the fact that it is so unmistakeably New York. I love the twin gothic towering arches, the web-like suspension wires and the wooden rickety walkway with the rushing city traffic zooming over the East River underfoot.

Caught in a web 

One of my favourite things to do in the whole world is walk across Brooklyn Bridge, on a sunny day, end up at Brooklyn Bridge Park, and laze in the sun with this stunning bridge as a backdrop. Perhaps a little stroll up to the Brooklyn Heights Promenade for some more spectacular views of the city.

Showing the bridge a little love. Some say too much.

In the summer, Brooklyn Bridge Park plays host to one of my favourite things - its one of the sites in the city that has a free movie summer screening programme. There is nothing better than making the journey to the park after a long days work, kicking back on a picnic blanket with a hot dog and a classic movie. The screen is set up so the bridge is in the background and as night falls, you bask in the city lights and truly feel that there is nowhere else on earth you'd rather be.

Aw at the random cute couple.

Sadly, on this trip, it was too early in the year to catch one of those screenings, and too overcast and windy a day to do much walking. But even to wander to the centre of the bridge, and get inspired by the architecture. I have about a bajillion photos of this bridge but every single time I come I always find something new to catch my eye. It's so romantic, so breathtaking and so completely New York.

Which makes it so me.

Up Town, Down Town, Turn the Beat Around Town

Railtrack gardens 

Yeah, yeah, yeah, yada, yada, yada. So you went to NY. WE KNOW. But what did you actually DO there?

That's what I imagine you (dear reader) to be saying right now. If not saying, thinking. And if you weren't actively thinking it, you probably secretly were deep down but you just didn't KNOW you were thinking it. So now you know, that I know, that WE ALL KNOW.

Capiche? Good.

 Diagram of bell sounds

 So here be some of the highlights of the stuff and ting I got up to this time round. One of the top things on my to-do list (that didn't involve eating) was to go and see the High Line Gardens. These hadn't been opened by the time I left and I'd always found the concept intriguing so was keen to visit in person.

It was quite a chilly and windy whilst I was up there, but the gardens were really pretty. One part that was particularly interesting was one of the Public Art installations on the 14 St Walkway (for that is where I entered the park). Here, Stephen Vitiello's 'A Bell for Every Minute' chimes the sound of a different bell recorded from somewhere in the New York City each minute, with a chorus of all the bells at the top of the hour. The above photo is the map of where each recorded bell sound is located physically. There were famous bells such as the Stock Exchange bell, the United Nations Peace bell, but also more everyday bells such as diner bells, bike bells etc.

It was really pretty to listen to and the sounds fill the space and echo out into the city. Definitely worth a visit.

Nomnomnom

I ate a loooot of food this trip, despite having (I think) contracted tonsillitis which flaired up for the duration of my trip. But, true to form and trooper that I am, I didn't let it hold me back from literally eating my way around Manhattan. The above photo was taken by my friend at the height of the tonsillitis pain, and I was eating the only thing that could possibly have soothed my throat at that time.

Rice pudding.

I don't normally like rice pudding but the only place IN THE WORLD that I will eat it is at Rice to Riches. On this occasion I chowed down on the cheesecake flavour with an Oreo cookie topping. Divine.

My fave 

No trip to NYC would be complete without a snap of my favourite building in the world, naturally. Our hotel was only a few blocks from the art-deco masterpiece that is the Chrysler, and we had a pretty awesome view of it out the window of our room. Bonus.

I wanna dance! 

 I also really really wanted to see another show on Broadway. While I was living out there I saw many shows (including one memorable occasion when I stalked Mario Lopez at the stage door and he completely blanked me. BAD Mario Lopez.) and they are always wonderful. This time I saw Billy Elliot. The storyline was so moving, BOY can those kids dance and of course, I loved the Elton John-penned score. My only gripe is that sadly, Americans just CAN NOT do a Geordie accent. Hell, I can't even do one and I'm British. I mean, they tried their best, but I couldn't understand what the heezy they were trying to say half the time.

Shame, as it was otherwise awesome. Think I'll try and catch it in the West End and see if the British version is better. (I think, probably, with the natural accent advantage)

Cheese? CAKE?

And of course, no evening at a Broadway show is complete without dessert at Junior's after the show. Junior's cheesecake is a New York institution. When I lived over there, whenever my boss and I wanted to sweet talk someone into doing something for us at work, we would run across the street to Junior's in Grand Central, buy a brick-like slab of their gorgeous cheesecake and use it as bargaining collateral. Worked every time.

Their slices are the size of my face, this was a chocolate mousse cheesecake and though there was willing (dear god was there willing), try as I might, I just could not finish it. SO GOOD.

When can I go back?

Anxious

 It's been a looong looong time. Too long.

About a week before I was due to fly out to NYC, the first time I'd been back since I lived there, I started getting really anxious. What if I went back, and it wasn't as good? Or it had changed? My time there was so completely life-changing, and I truly feel that I've never felt like I belonged, that I fitted in, that I was meant.to.be anywhere else but there. It's the most amazing, beautiful city and I love it like I've never thought I could love a place before.

True dat.

On the plane, as the captain announced we were about to start making our descent into Newark, I practically had my nose pressed up against the glass, my heart was thumping in my chest, just waiting for that view. As we broke through the clouds and the plane brought is in to land, I had to swallow the lump in my throat as the relief rushed over me that I was BACK. Back back back back!

Bright lights bigger city

I needn't have worried. Of course there are bits that are new, and slight things that have changed (pedestrianisation of Times Square being one of them - brilliant idea) but from the moment I landed I felt the same as I ever did. I felt right back at home, with a spring in my step and a lift in my heart. I got that magical buzz back that I just can't get anywhere else.

Intersection

It was an amazing trip, I caught up with old friends, visiting some old favourite places and some new places along the way. There is a lot more for me to show here on the blog. But I just wanted to kick off by saying that it seems that although I've been away for three years, I feel like I will always belong there. And that is such a relief.

Roaming Georgetown

All neighbourhoods should have a pink bike on the sidewalk

I'm back! I came back. Call off the search party. I didn't go to America, elope to Vegas with a New York waiter and settle down. Mores the pity.

So here begins the first of many posts about my travels Stateside.

I asked the owner if I could live here. He slammed the door. There endeth the lesson. 

My first stop was DC to visit a great friend of mine. She was a fellow intern on the same exchange programme as me in New York, and we have been friends ever since. She is currently studying at Georgetown University at the moment, and I am jealous as all hell.

Pretty pavement posies 

Georgetown is a gorgeous part of DC, one of the most historic parts of America, with dollhouse architecture, and my friend lives in one of the cosy leafy little back streets off the main street. She gets to wander through streets such as these EVERY DAY. Whilst I am off at boring WORK in stupid LONDON, she gets to study and learn and have things such as KEG PARTIES. For the sake of balance: I SUPPOSE she also has things such as finals, but I'll conveniently gloss over those, much like I tried to do while I was at uni.

My point is, noone has keg parties in London. I wouldn't even know where to go to get any red cups. PFFFT.

 Brass accents

(Can you tell I had a little trouble coming home?)

Bread & Cakes and Time & Space

 Meringues are the new porn

It really is birthday season in my family. Last weekend my cousin had a birthday party, and this weekend it is the turn of my dad, who is 57 years young today!

I invited my parents up to foggy London town for a little birthday weekend break. My dad is really into science and astronomy so I thought it would be nice to take him to Greenwich for the day.

 Bready.

While we were in Greenwich we stumbled upon a Paul Rhodes bakery, which was amazing and everything a bakery should be to me! We are all massive bread and cake fans in my family, and a Paul Rhodes bakery is a real artisan treat. The smell of fresh bread hits you as soon as you walk in and there are delicate homemade cakes for as far as the eye can see.

Bake em away toys.

It's super popular and it's not hard to see why! So we snaffled some of their wares as a birthday treat, my dad went for the pecan tart, my mum for the chocolate cupcake and I came away with one of those sexy meringues. SO good.

Rental units

And boy did we need the treat! We had just walked up and down the epic hill to Greenwich Observatory. It was a really cold and blustery day, and I was complaining about the wind constantly, but actually in reterospect - I really wouldn't want to climb that hill in the height of summer. I'd be an unsightly sweaty mess, and that's never good for anyone.

Hope springs eternal

On the way up, I spied some snowdrops on the hill. I didn't see ANY snowdrops last year so got really excited about these. I'm huge flower fangirl (Top Tip: get me a bunch and I'll do anything) and I always find snowdrops such cheery l'il guys. It means SPRING IS NEAR!! Hope, light, warm is just around the corner, which is just what you need to be reminded of at this time of year. 

Dad-dad-daddio

We spent some time wandering around the exhibits at the Observatory (all free - bargainous!) and paid a small charge to watch one of the shows at the Planetarium, which we all enjoyed, but mainly because the chairs are in a recumbant position so you can watch the ceiling. We've decided this is the way forward for cinema generally.

Greenwich has a really lovely olde worlde villagey feel to it, I'd love to go back again soon and explore the markets and perhaps also the Naval College. Maybe one for the summertime.

But most importantly for me my dad had a happy dappy birthday and that's reason enough for me to scale a mountain and scoff a meringue!

Going Back

I can't believe this was taken just over 3 years ago. It blows my mind.

I'm so excited. You may have guessed why. I'm going baaackkk! 

Sadly, not forever. Just a holiday, after Easter. But it'll be my first time back in NYC since I left in September 08, and therefore likely to be quite emotional. 

But I don't want to spend my whole time there blubbering like a big girl - I'm also SUPER excited about visiting some of my old favourite places: Bubbies, Brooklyn Bridge (♥), Guggenheim, Central Park in the springtime, cannoli in Little Italy, maybe a little Magnolia visit for old times sake and then a stroll along Bleeker, Banana Republic/J Crew/Sephora at non-redonculous prices, a show or two on Broadway, Cafe Wha?: MY GOD the list is endless!

 Stealth

But I also have a huge long list of things that I want to do that I haven't done yet. Balthazar, Abraco, Momofuko, and the recently re-opened for brunch (BRUNCH - only my most favouritist thing!) Minetta Tavern are just a few of the places I want to eat my way through. And of course since I left, there's Topshop NYC to check out (and laugh at the extortionate prices), and I'm desperate to see the High Line Gardens.

Miracle on 34th St

Basically I have way too much stuff to do and not enough time to do it. Some editing will be needed.

But it's going to be magical, amazing and beautiful. I can't frigging wait.

War and Peace

NNNEEEEAAAAOOWWW. That's a plane noise. 

I last went to the Imperial War Museum when I was 14 on a school trip and it's always been on my list of places to return to since. I was really taken with the exhibits on display back then, particularly the Blitz and Trench "experiences" - for a kid with an extremely vivid imagination it was a fantastic way of bringing the dusty history books from school to life.

So this weekend I finally went back. I remember the atrium with the wartime planes hanging from the rafters being impressive back then, and that certainly hasn't changed. But the main thing I really wanted to see on this visit was the Holocaust Exhibition.

It was certainly not easy viewing, and I have no pictures of that exhibit as it just didn't feel appropriate, its such an emotive and horrific subject, but I would very definitely recommend it. One of the most horrific things for me is how the Nazi beliefs became so widespread and more and more extreme in such a relatively short amount of time, to be able to get that many people think and believe or at the very least accept that this was the right thing to do sends shivers down my spine.

So, on a lighter note (if there is such a thing in war), I found the rest of museum really really super geek-fest interesting. From the mock-up of a war time house to the sweets and toys on display from that era - I don't know what it is about that period (30s/40s) but I can't get enough of it at the moment! The politics, the fashion, and what it was like to live during that time. It's still within living memory but seems so alien to my generation as we haven't had to cope with anything remotely like that.

The perseverance of the human spirit through the most awful atrocities of war was the biggest theme I saw running through the tales that the artefacts had to tell. And that is what makes me smile. That and this poster:

Roger that